Viñales, Cuba: Tobacco Fields, Green Valleys and Horseback Riding

When I think of Cuba, cigars are one of the first things that comes to mind. That’s why I knew I had to visit Viñales, Cuba, home to some of the country’s best tobacco farms and lush green valleys.

How to Get to Viñales from Havana

Viñales is about 2.5 hours west of Havana. Getting there is easy. There are many taxis in the city that can take you on a day trip to Viñales or drive you there one way.

My friends and I chose to stay overnight. One night works, but I recommend at least two nights in Viñales. It’s peaceful, beautiful, and there’s a lot to see.

On the drive from Havana to Viñales, I quickly relaxed and started to enjoy the view. The road is lined with green fields, fruit trees, and lots of cows. I didn’t know exactly what to expect from Cuba’s countryside, but it surprised me in the best way.

First Impressions of Valle de Viñales

When we arrived in the Valle de Viñales, I was mesmerized by all the green hills and dramatic rock formations. Our taxi driver pointed out small wooden huts where farmers dry tobacco leaves for Cuban cigars. The leaves hang inside for about four to eight weeks before they’re ready.

We stayed in a small, cozy house. Our host arranged a tour of the local tobacco and coffee fields, which I highly recommend if you want to understand the culture and farming life in Viñales.

Horseback Riding Through Tobacco and Coffee Fields

Even though it was pouring rain that day, we were determined to explore. We joined a three-hour horseback riding tour through the tobacco and coffee fields of Viñales.

The landscape was stunning. At times, it felt like riding through Jurassic Park: tall green mountains, thick vegetation, mist, and quiet trails. Along the way, we saw cows, oxen, and wide open farmland. The rain actually made the ride feel even more wild and adventurous.

A Surprising Story About Cows in Cuba

After the horseback tour, we stopped at a tobacco farm to learn how cigars are made. I was starving and jokingly told our guide that I wanted to eat one of the cows nearby.

His answer shocked me. He explained that in Cuba it’s illegal to kill cows, oxen, and bulls, and that someone could go to jail for up to ten years for doing so. Cows are considered government property. Farmers must sell their cows to the government and then buy the meat back at a much higher price, which they can't afford.

He asked if it was the same in Mexico. I told him no, and shared how my grandfather in Durango would kill a cow so the family could have fresh meat. My guide laughed put his arm around me and said, “Vieja , me voy a México con Claudia para comer carne” which means "Wife, I'm going to Mexico with Claudia to eat beef."

In that moment, I really felt how different daily life can be, even for people who live surrounded by land and animals.

Why Viñales, Cuba Stole a Piece of My Heart

Our guides in Viñales were kind, funny, and very welcoming. Between the tobacco farms, coffee fields, and horseback riding in Valle de Viñales, I saw a softer, greener side of Cuba that I’ll never forget.

A piece of my heart stayed in Viñales, Cuba — with its rich landscapes, slow pace, and people who love life despite the challenges they face.